'Our Town and it's surrounds'

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Plaistow

Plaistow is our home 'town', the place where we were both born, brought up and have lived in or close to, all our lives. Located about 5 miles from the 'Square Mile' of the City of London in the centre of the east London Borough of Newham, Plaistow consists of many houses and shops - mainly small, and only a relatively minor amount of what might be called 'large business' premises. Formerly part of Essex, it is now a typical big city suburb, noisy, grubby and in some ways neglected - by both those that have lived there and the many that pass through. But for many of it's residents there is a mixture of life, movement and various emotions around them.

A Newham map - zoom.

Zoom in on Newham

As always, the Newham area is in the slow process of changing, in later years as heavy industry has moved away and major redevelopement, funded firstly by the LDDC (London Dockland Development Council) and then by EEC (European Community) grants, new trends are taking effect. The first sign of Newham escaping it's industrial heritage of the past century and a half has been the new major road system which, now crosses the southern half of Newham's area, east to west, cutting through the borough and linking central London with those city commuters from the eastern counties and heavy traffic from the container port of Tilbury. Redevelopement has 'landscaped' much of the south Newham, with the new wide roads having grassed and planted areas running alongside them. London City Airport, The Thames Barrier, a giant new University campus (UEL), a National Exhibition-Conference Centre (ExCel), and large Retail Parks are other major additions to that part of Newham and more is to come shortly including up-market homes and shopping areas making Newham the 'Eastern Gateway' to London.

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Its history

The 'Lawrence' (Lal's maternal line) branch of our family tree have for a great many generations, been born and bred in Plaistow (pronounced 'plarsto' by locals). In fact, they have been traced, by us, back to the 17th century, in the area. Many of the family's men were described as 'carmen' - drivers of horse-drawn wagons. Others were 'cattle keepers' and 'milk callers'. Within the 'Irons' (Amy's paternal line) branch, family members were also born in or around Plaistow back to the mid to late 19th century - many of them publicans, although this branch of our family tree originated in rural Suffolk.

The name 'Plaistow' is probably derived from a man who was once the area's Lord of the Manor - Hugh de Plaiz. 'stow' means a village, thus it is the 'village of Plaiz'. Another, lesser theory is that it meant a 'playplace' or village green, but I much prefer the former theory. Many variations on the name can be found on old maps or documents of the area, some going back to the 13th century. i.e.: Pleystow; Plegstow; Plestor; Plastow; Playstow; etc.

The general area which bordered Plaistow to the south was known as 'Hamme' at least as early as 958AD when King Edgar granted ownership of the land to his nobleman - Athelstan (this charter still survives). Later in the time of Edward the Confessor (11th Century) - according to some sources - the 'Lords' of the two local Manors were Alestan (West Hamme) and Leured (East Hamme). The area was bought, sold, given away and exchanged 'ownership' many times during its early history. In 1886 the whole of West Ham, including Plaistow, became an Essex County Borough in its own right, then in 1965, this in turn was merged with East Ham to become the London Borough of Newham.

In earlier times (pre 19th century) the area was very sparsely populated indeed, it was a rural Essex community bounded across the southern half by marshland (Plaistow Level) which led down to, and bordered on, the River Thames - the northern edge of this marsh was located roughly on the east-west line of today's Barking Road and north of this consisted mainly of open woodland with the occasional path for the few travellers, a little further north (along the line of the Romford Road) was once the southern edge of Epping Forest.

In its formative years, Plaistow village itself apparently originally consisted of just three streets - Cordwainer Street (possibly pointing to an old industry in leatherwork), Balaam Lane (after an old local family's surname - pronounced bay-lam) & Greengate Street. Cordwainer Street later disappeared becoming three separate streets - North Street, Richmond Street & High Street, Balaam Lane became Balaam Street. Greengate Street however remained unchanged and, as it's name implies, actually led to a 'green gate' at it's southern end which opened onto the soft grassy southern marsh area where cattle were grazed (the gate keeping the cattle on the marshland and allowing their keepers access to and from the marsh from the drier land).

Five Pubs are involved in Plaistow's early history - the Black Lion; the Green Gate (these two being the oldest); the Abbey Arms; the Coach & Horses and the Greyhound. It is thought that the Abbey Arms was originally known as the 'Crown', but there really was an Abbey that gave the pub it's name (Stratford Langthorn or 'West Ham' Abbey was situated just to the west of old Plaistow village, and part of the nearby marshland was also called Abbey Marsh). All these pubs still exist, mostly rebuilt and just one being renamed - The Greyhound becoming The Sportsman around the late 1970's to the 1990s, then reverting to a name close to its original - 'The Greyhound and Hare' in the late 1990s. In the 18th century the area became more fashionable and attracted some of the more affluent residents of London seeking a 'country' retreat within reach of their city homes. Later still, as the population of the area swelled, many of the newly formed streets and roads in Plaistow were named after it's wealthier residents; Webb; Sewell; Pelly; Kelland; Warmington; Howard; Beale; Riles; Swete; Whitwell and so on.

One thoroughfare in particular - Cumberland Road - gained it's name because Henry, then (1787) the Duke of Cumberland (brother of George III), bought a large 17th century house and kept his racing stables there. Although the duke died at just 45 years of age his title left his mark on Plaistow. One interesting comment to make - Stratford's Local History Library have minutes from the Parish Vestry of the time, in which local officials reduced the duke's rating assessment to the level of the 'poor' rate..., and indeed, they have a collection book which shows that he only paid the 'poor' amount - showing that political 'sleaze' is not a modern phenomenom. Many other large upper class houses were to be found in Plaistow in those, more rural, times.

Cumberland 'new barn'.

The 'Old Barn' at Cumberland House, believed originally built in the 16th century and was said to be the largest in Essex ('130 ft long and 50 ft from eaves to apex of roof, made of Spanish chestnut'). Finally pulled down in 1905. The Medieval name for the area was 'New Barns' which explains the name of today's New Barn Street in Plaistow which runs parallel to Cumberland Road.
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During and after the building of the nearby 'Royal Docks', Plaistow became the home to more and more construction workers, dock workers and others on that level of the social scale, eventually Plaistow and its fellow districts could not avoid being swallowed up by the expansion of London itself, and was transferred from being a rural Borough of West Ham in Essex to being part of West Ham as a London Borough - which was later combined with neighbouring East Ham and formed part of a large new single London Borough - Newham (note: as stated elsewhere 'ham' is apparently an old name for a pasture next to a river - East Ham, West Ham, Dagenham, etc.). The marshes have long gone, the docks have ceased their original activity - and have all changed their appearance into marinas, water sport facilities or just nice 'scenery' for waterside homes, the wealthy in the past have preferred to live elsewhere. but due to the enormous tracts of land left by the closing of the docks and other redundant industrial sites, Plaistow and it's neighbours still have a lot to add to their future history. Today luxury homes have been (and are still being) built, located along dockside and riverfront where only a couple of years ago rows of large factories reigned and no one wanted to actually set up home - if they could help it...... Times change....

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Surrounding Plaistow

West Ham

The general area surrounding Plaistow and embodies the western half of Newham, and - as with Plaistow - was also originally a small village in its own right dating back to the 13th century, situated closer to Stratford than Plaistow Village. later became the location of West Ham Parish church. After expanding to encompass surrounding areas it became a County Borough in its own right before merging with East Ham to form the Greater London Borough of Newham.

Canning Town (part of West Ham)

At this point in time, Canning Town is where we actually live. It can be found adjacent to, and west of, Plaistow - a little bit closer to the City of London. Regarded by locals as better or worse than Plaistow depending on which part they were actually born or brought up in, it is probably neither, but roughly the same in most aspects.

Canning Town is on the western edge of Newham bordering the adjacent borough, Tower Hamlets, and as London bound commuters drive westwards over the 'Canning Town flyover' on the A13 heading towards the main part of London they will then also cross over Bow Creek which marks Canning Town's boundary with South Bromley and Poplar.

First 'worker's' houses.

The first worker's homes built in Canning Town around 1850.

In early - pre 18th century times the area was mainly 'riverside' marshland, with little population until the opening of Thames Ironworks, the docks and other riverside industries, indeed Charles Dickens said that 'Canning Town is the child of Victoria Dock'. The origin of the name Canning Town is uncertain, but it is thought to have been named after John Charles Canning (1812 - 1862), a Governor General of India. Another theory is to do with the Thames Ironworks & Shipbuilding Co. and indeed could have been an act of political indulgance by that company's owner in naming the area around his shipyard after the Governor General. Unlike Plaistow, no old pubs or taverns seem to have stood out in the area's earlier history, and Thames Ironworks is it's best known historic 'name' - that being the name of the company, who's workers' football (soccer) team later became West Ham United. In the mid 19th century Canning Town's location just outside London's border also put it outside of the city's building regulations during the period of the area's industrial beginnings, and many developers of the period took full advantage of the situation, often building rows of cheap, often unsafe, and unsanitary homes for the workers which the area became well known for many years.

Silvertown (part of West Ham)

Directly to the south of Canning Town along the north bank of the Thames, and, for most of the 19th / 20th century was known locally as being the main source of employment and the home of heavy industry in Newham, the area is now undergoing extensive redevelopement and is now host to the London City Airport, which is sited on a large 'strip' of land between two of the old 'Royal' docks; nearby are the new UEL campus; and the ExCel Conference Centre both dominating the old docks. Silvertown itself was originally named after S. W. Silver and Co., a company that manufactured explosives during the 19th century.

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Custom House (part of West Ham)

South-eastern part of Canning Town, an area with a name connected to the Royal Docks which themselves date back to the 1850's when their construction began, firstly on the huge Victoria Dock, (the last - the Albert Dock - opened as late as 1921). As was necessary to house the workforce for the docks, Custom House contains a large amount of domestic working class housing. It was also the home of West Ham Stadium (note: NOT the home of West Ham United, but home to a speedway/dog racing track) which had a capacity for over 100,000 people - demolished in the 1970s.

Stratford (part of West Ham)

To the north of Canning Town and Plaistow is the much older - Stratford - which actually stood for 'A ford on a Roman Road' - Stroetford - where the road from London to Colchester crosses the River Lea. Stratford was the main local 'market town' when Plaistow was a small village, surrounded by rural countryside.

Forest Gate (part of West Ham)

Northern part of West Ham and east of Stratford, containing part of the Wansted 'Flats'. Forest Gate was formerly part of the southern edge of Epping Forest and the name actually refers to 'the gate to Epping Forest' which was originally to be found in Woodgrange Road.

Upton Park (part of West Ham)

Named after the former village of Upton and found just east of West Ham village, dates back to 13th century, later the nearby 'Upton House' (in Upton Lane) was occupied by the Quaker 'Lister' family of whom Joseph (later Lord) Lister (pioneer of antiseptic surgery) was one born there. The 'Park' in the name comes from the early development of large private homes on areas of the original West Ham Park. Now applies to the area along and around Green Street with its own tube station of the same name. West Ham United's Boleyn Ground is often called 'Upton Park'.

North Woolwich (and Woolwich)

'A port from which wool was shipped' - Uuluuich, 918. North Woolwich is on the southern edge of Newham, alongside the Thames and is connected to (South) Woolwich (once in Kent, now in a separate London Borough across the Thames) via both the Woolwich (Free) Ferry and a 'foot' tunnel which both serve to give the public easy access across the river. The area around North Woolwich was once itself considered to be part of Kent as is shown on old maps.

East Ham

Formerly a separate borough and with its own history, adjacent to, and east of West Ham and Plaistow is the (once) more middle class, East Ham, which still contains older homes that can be seen as slightly larger, slightly better than those found in it's westerly neighbour's streets. As described above, the name comes from it once being the 'eastern part of a pasture alongside a river'.

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Beckton (part of East Ham)

Southern part of East Ham, named after S. A. Beck. Once the governor of the Gas, Light and Coke Company. who ran the huge Beckton Gas Works originating in 1869. Now extensively rebuilt with new housing estates and Retail Shopping Parks, which make it the destination for many local shoppers. Once part of the open marshy area, it held hundreds of garden 'allotments' for locals over many years and was also the site of a large PoW camp during WWII.

Manor Park (part of East Ham)

The north eastern part of Newham, once far more affluent than the rest of the borough. Actually named after a Manor House, still standing in Gladding Road, which was built by the Lord of West Ham Manor (often mistakenly thought of as part of East Ham Manor) in the early 19th century.

Poplar

'The place of the poplar tree'. West of Canning Town (in next borough westwards - Tower Hamlets)

Barking and Dagenham

Both found to the east of Newham, once in the county of Essex, and both names probably originate from old tribal sources. Barking from the 8th century 'Berica's people' - Bercinghum. And Dagenham is from the late 7th century 'Doecca's village' - Doeccenham. 'Barking and Dagenham' is now considered a Greater London Borough in it's own right, although it still has Essex post codes. Try Barking & Dagenham's own web site for more information.

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Ilford (part of )

To the east of Newham's Manor Park.

Romford (part of )

A little further east and once probably the main market town for east London and south-west Essex, try Romford's own web site.

Lal Cook.

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